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I love to travel for my birthday. It's really the only present I ever want. We had been all over Italy, but never Sicily, and Sicily had been calling us for a while.
Ballarò is the "oldest food market in Palermo", according to the 10th-century Arab author's travel log. What an experience - such a vibrant mix of cultures and history.
We watched in a bit of a daze as a farmer took a machete to his artichokes and chiseled them down to the flowering bud we know and love. Can't wait to get back to our place and throw these on the bbq!